Netflix’s Chef’s Table is back with its seventh season, following the success of the spinoff show, Chef’s Table: Noodles, and the exciting announcement of a special season called Legends. This season marks the ten-year milestone of the acclaimed documentary series created by David Gelb (known for Jiro Dreams of Sushi) and directed by Brian McGinn. Season 7 continues to showcase the lives of four talented chefs, capturing their culinary creations and cooking processes in stunning detail. The featured chefs include Kwame Onwuachi from Tatiana in New York City, the dynamic duo of married restaurateurs Norma Listman and Saqib Keval from Mexico City, Ãngel León from Aponiente in Cádiz, Spain, and opening the season is Nok Suntaranon, the chef-owner of Kalaya in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
Opening Shot: âI live in between two worlds,â Chutatip âNokâ Suntaranon says over matched shots of the chef observing the Philadelphia skyline and visiting her native Thailand. âAs a child, my reality was painful, full of uncertainty and fear. But I buried the not-beautiful part of my life.â
The Gist: Suntaranon opened Kalaya in 2019, and won her first James Beard award a year later. In the bright, clean space in Philadelphiaâs Fishtown neighborhood, Suntaranon serves Thai cuisine that elevates the dining experience far beyond the standard American concept of cheap Pad Thai takeout. âTom Yum with giant prawns the size of sea monsters,â says food journalist and former Top Chef Masters host Francis Lam. âDumplings, pleated and sculpted to look like birds.â Dishes like these highlight Suntaranonâs creativity, and celebrate the flavors of Southern Thailand, where she was born. âAt Kalaya,â the chef says of the restaurant she named after her mother, âI use my memories to create my food.â
Season 7 of Chefâs Table adheres to established house style for the series, with Suntaranon featured in voiceover and on-camera interviews, cutaways to highlight her restaurantâs physical space and signature dishes, and tasteful, considered camera work that captures scenes from Philly â the chef gathering fresh ingredients from local markets, or greeting diners in the restaurant â and follows Suntaranon as she visits Thailand and shares more about her background. As a child, she experienced poverty and domestic violence. But her father also adored goat curry, and enjoying the dish with him is imprinted on her memory. âWhy is it so spicy?â Nok remembers thinking of the curry as a kid. But also, âWhy canât I stop eating it?!â
The goat curry Suntaranon put on the menu at Kalaya requires time and effort to prepare. Four or five hours, just to cook down the bones in a bath of coconut milk. But the result, served with a cooling accompaniment for balance, âis painful but delicious.â In its seventh season, Chefâs Table remains proficient in placing an individual chefâs influences and process into the larger context of how diners experience the food they prepare, and the emotions that are transmitted through each bite.
What Shows Will It Remind You Of? In addition to Chefâs Table, David Gelb and Brian McGinn also teamed up to make Street Food for Netflix, which has traveled to Asia, Latin America, and the US across its three seasons. The series Mind of a Chef, narrated by the late Anthony Bourdain, always felt like a kindred spirit of Chefâs Table. (These days it streams on Tubi.) And both The Pasta Queen, featuring chef Nadia Caterina, and Stanley Tucciâs Searching for Italy nail down the scenic travels-and-sumptuous foods comfort watch angle.
Our Take: The look and feel of Chefâs Table is so dialed in that every new season is like being welcomed back as a regular. No prior knowledge of a chef, their food, or their restaurant is necessary, as the series employs an unbusy approach to its camera work, forgoes external narration, and presents beauty shots of the food â typical of any reality/docuseries â but without added histrionics or spiky editing. Table gets out of the way, and lets the boldness of the cuisine and its profiled person speak for themselves.
What this creates is a one-to-one ratio for the viewer. And if you were to ask the featured chefs, thatâs probably what they would want any marketing or advertising to do for their spots. But this isnât about free plugs. The docuseries finds ways to dig deep unobtrusively, so that it establishes the connectivity between a food professionalâs influences, creativity, restaurant industry acumen, and method of operation before it shows off the finished product. It works to make the dishes and the described experience more real, so that even through a TV screen, you can feel the emotions that went into it, and revel in its flavors. And isnât that better than watching a celebrity host take a bite and have to try and impart to the viewer with empty declarations how delicious a dish really is?
Sex and Skin: None.
Parting Shot: Nok gets emotional as we see images of her preparing and eating a meal with her mom in Thailand. âI donât know how long my mother will be with me. But the restaurant Kalaya will be here forever.â
Sleeper Star: With any episode of Chefâs Table, the sleeper star is always hero shots of the food. Listen, look, marvel, and pull out your phone to make flight, hotel, and restaurant reservations, because a step-by-step sequence featuring Kalayaâs Goong Phao, complete with Nok Suntaranonâs narration of how she prepares the grilled river prawn, is a complete sensory spectacle. âItâs like Iâm taking you to Thailand with me in one bite.â
Most Pilot-y Line: âIt was difficult at first,â Suntaranon says of opening Kalaya at 50, marking the beginning of her second career. âI did not know if this restaurant gonna make money, or if I am going to make it. But every night, I go to every table, talk to them, listen to them. Make them feel like theyâre coming into my home and learning my culture. We start getting busier and busier. The pot of curry getting bigger and bigger.â
Our Call: Stream It! Now in its seventh season, the trademark visual aesthetic of Chefâs Table continues to offer enterprise-class food porn, while its chef profiles are insightful and often quite inspiring.
Johnny Loftus (@glennganges) is an independent writer and editor living at large in Chicagoland. His work has appeared in The Village Voice, All Music Guide, Pitchfork Media, and Nicki Swift.
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